Art, magnificent (and newly restored) cathedrals and monasteries, treasures and palaces of the czars, the performing arts, health spas, river cruises, historic sites, spectacular scenery, Siberia and Moscow's Kremlin are Russia's main attractions. Russia will appeal to travelers who have a sense of adventure and an open mind. Don't expect a relaxing vacation, and, unless you're in Moscow or St. Petersburg, don't expect deluxe accommodations -- a trip through Russia requires determination, flexibility and plenty of patience.

Today's Russia is often exhilarating, sometimes ominous. Everyday life goes on amid a jumble of trial-and-error capitalism, glitzy casinos, billboard politics, czar mania and slick gangster-hangout restaurants. Some observers have suggested that 30%-40% of Russia's economy is controlled by organized crime. Add to the mix a religious revival: Hundreds of newly renovated Russian Orthodox churches are offering services in Moscow alone.

So far, travelers haven't been affected directly by the country's turmoil or corruption. But conditions are changing so quickly that you should keep a very close eye on the news. And you should be aware that despite all the new doors that have opened and the greater flow of information, there are still plenty of murky areas in Russia -- sudden changes of rules, unexpected shortages and mysterious surcharges. Nevertheless, you'll find that the overall quality of hotels, restaurants and services, while wildly variable, is improving.

In any case, travelers should be flexible, tolerant and patient -- and aware of risks. Russia can be both an enthralling adventure and a tiring ordeal. For those willing to endure the risks and inconveniences, Russia is simply a fascinating place -- from the imperial beauty of Moscow and St. Petersburg to the bleakly romantic Siberian countryside. .