Sandwiched like a middle child between outgoing Lithuania and more reserved Estonia, Latvia has been forging its own distinctive style in recent years. There is a sense of buoyant energy in the country. But there is also a kind of gangsterlike roughness behind the faded, elegant facade of Riga, the capital, whose whimsical Jugendstil buildings are ringed by Stalin-era concrete blocks and industrial sprawl. ,P. While not yet the Paris of the north that Latvians have claimed it to be, Riga is the cosmopolitan hub of the Baltics. You'll find good food and nightlife, with a growing international flare. And better still, you can explore charming, verdant countryside, with memorable castles and villas, and a stretch of coastline known as the Baltic Riviera (where, because of pollution, it's much safer to stroll than to swim).

Latvians have suffered throughout their history from foreign domination -- Germans, Swedes and Russians have all occupied the country. In fact, the concept of Latvia as a nation is relatively recent: It wasn't until the 19th century that a national consciousness and literature began to emerge. Russia ruled Latvia for more than 200 years until the Peace Treaty of Riga made the country an independent state in 1920. Latvia's freedom was short lived, however. The republic was annexed in 1940 by the Soviet Union as a result of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact (in exchange, Germany was given a free hand in Poland). But during its short tenure as a free state, patriotic feelings intensified considerably. Native Latvians never considered their land to be part of the Soviet Union (nor was the takeover ever recognized by many noncommunist countries). The collapse of the Soviet Union provided the chance Latvians had been awaiting for 50 years.

Geographically, the country is characterized by rolling plains, gentle hills, beautiful valleys and more than 5,000 lakes (formed during the last Ice Age). Forests, marshes and fields cover the countryside. .